Environmental Studies and Surf Science

This course will explain, explore and analyze surfing from a scientific perspective. The course summarizes the dynamic meteorological, oceanographic and coastal phenomena that determine the size, shape and frequency of ocean swells, inshore waves, tidal bores and tsunamis. The course explores the relationships between the many sizes and shapes of surf boards and the types of waves each is designed to best surf. The course requires students to analyze surf skills, catalog terms that describe them, like “floater,” “hanging ten” and “pearl” and explain the dynamic physical processes that enable us the catch a wave, or not and bust these moves. Students will also identify anthropogenic ocean threats that degrade surf breaks, coral reefs and water quality and learn how to protect each.